DR. TROY STERNBERG
After a chaotic bus ride I left India on foot. Across no-mans-land to a passport stamp and a cheerful wave I walked smilinginto Nepal. In the far distance were the majestic, purple-tinged Himalayas of dreams; in front was an open-sided cafe with real Coca Cola and ice for 5 cents. The soda cooled my parched throat as people welcomed me in English. I felt right at home and stayed for dinner.
In the morning I was early for the 7 am bus to Pokhara, but I was not the first. Boxes and chickens were heaved on the roof as families settled inside. I was so excited, I had no idea what to expect. Pokhara, was it even in my guide book? It did not matter, this is where the adventure begins. Departure time came but we stayed – waiting for someone, more cargo, fuel – I did not know. Then from the roof came, ‘Ey, the best view is up here!’ What, ride on top the bus – I had never done that. Soon I was talking with an experienced Aussie traveller as the bus pulled out of Siddharthanagar. The fog lifted as we wound through the Terai. Then the bus disappeared into the hills and forests with me on top. Birds, sounds, waving people andhidden shrines passed us. The ride curved through lost villages and new sensations, like waking in a dream.Gradually we edged up, further towards the elusive mountains that were invisible to the bus winding through the jungle.
People got off and on, words and shouting that I could not understand all around. The roof top Nepalis smiled and laughed with us. At one hillside village the bus stopped, the engine went quiet. That was the cue for lunch. But how to get off the bus through all the unloading? A local showed me how to climb down the side, foot on the window ledge and then a jump. There were no cafes until he indicated to me that what I took for a home was the best food stall in town. I looked around for silverware for the dal, but no need. He showed me how to eat with 5 fingers – the food tasted better this way.
Afternoon got steeper, cooler, more exotic. Life along the road, in the forests and streams and overhead covered me. I had to shake my head to catch the beauty and realise the reverie was real, beyond the life I used to know. The rooftop was comfortable, leaning against bags, watching the commotion below and the big sky above. Each minute, each hour was a new world. The day drifted into the clouds.
Then at dusk we rolled into Pokhara. What a surprise to see a town appear in an open valley. Imagine the extraordinary scene, coming out of the misty hills, seeing the twinkling lights nestled next to Tal Lake and knowing this was home for the night. I was eager to explore – should I jump off the bus? Then again, I lingered, did not want the day to end. In the morning the family host came running into my room. The words were something else, but the sight was beautiful. There in front, even above me, was Annapurna glowing. The dream continued another day. Welcome to Nepal.
DR. TROY STERNBERG (Senior Researcher & professor- OXFORD UNIVERSITY/LISBON UNIVERSITY)
